Under gray, rainy, skies the official harvest of the Montmartre Vineyard took place on September 13th, with a show that was as much burlesque as it was traditional. In a mixture of schmoozing and celebration, local luminaries, actors, wine tasters and real people rubbed elbows with "Mick" the "Cantiniere de la Communaute de Montmartre", Patrick Timsit the actor, Daniel Vaillant, the Mayor of Montmartre, and even a pair of "Can-Can" dancers from the "Moulin Rouge", all present to kick off what must be the world’s shortest harvest: nine a.m. to noon.

The vineyard, one of the smallest in France, covers 1,500 square meters of a Northern slope off the Rue de Saule in the heart of the Montmartre district.

(18^th) Looking more like a large garden than a producing vineyard, it is easy to miss given the other attractions of the neighborhood, the treachery of the cobble-stoned descent and the spectacular rooftop view of Paris the street affords.

The vineyard was planted during the 1930’s, encouraged by the artist Poulbot, in conjunction with the township of Montmartre and even the intervention of the French President, to preserve a small patch of land from encroaching developers. Originally dubbed the "Square de la Liberte", the vineyard is now owned by the community and cared for by 8 Gardeners of the city of Paris, who plant, nurture, screen and also harvest the grapes.

Some nasty cracks about the vineyard's proximity to the Montmartre cemetery gave rise to the comment that there was probably more of Poulbot in the wine than just his influence in creating the vineyard.

Originally this practically Alpine tract was planted with Pinot and Gamay grapes. Since the mid 1990’ s however, Oeneologist Francis Gourdin has been replacing the Gamay with Pinot and other varieties in an effort to improve the wine’s quality. Currently the cepage is 30% Pinot, 30% Gamay, and 30% Plantee, but Gourdin says he is aiming for ever higher concentrations of Pinot. The wine is "Rustic" according to Gourdin, "….Low tannin, but full of burned wood, red fruits, blueberry and bayberry…." " It has a Vin de table aspect." he adds, "….definitely not a Grand Bordeaux….".

Long dubbed the "Most expensive bad wine in the world", Gourdin maintains that since his involvement with the vineyard began in 1995, the quality has improved steadily. 1999, he says, will be the best year so far having benefited from a good combination of temperatures throughout the summer, with occasional August storms facilitating the rise in sugar concentration in the grapes. The intense sun during the first two weeks of September also ripened the fruit faster, and he expects an even better wine than his "exceptional " 1998 vintage.

The harvested grapes are taken to the Mairie of the 18^th arrondissement, the only town hall in the world with the distinction of having it’s own wine press and maturing cellar. The grapes are sorted, cleaned and the wine made on the premises. Surely this must make the "Vin Montmartrois" the smallest Cru in France.

The wine has a slightly occluded ruby color, indicative of the high Gamay content. It’s nose reveals the Pinot however and is emphatic to say the least,

(almost overwhelming to be accurate) reminiscent of the "Vins Gris" of North Africa. If there were any bay or blue berries in the nuances, they were well hidden by the general coarseness and the onslaught of wood as the liquid hit the palate. This is a wine which should definitely see air for a good long period to soften the initial blow. Overall, the experience could well be described as "Rustic", although "Unfinished" would better describe the wine itself.

Last year’s harvest produced 1065 50cl bottles, or just over 500 liters. This year is expected to exceed this total. However, at an average price of 300 FF. per bottle, the wine, and Mr. Gourdin have their work cut out for them.