La Lettre de La Cagouille de Gérard Allemandou

All reproductions prohibited. © 1997 Gérard Allemandou. English translation: Maggy Vincent

Version Française

A-propos

Technical notes.

The BNIC wrote a convoluted text called " the indications of quality and their meanings"; they have an absolutely subjective way of explaining the legislation to be applied in the field of the cognac age definition. In fact, these definitions are very accurate:

*** or VS: less than 2 years in a cask

VSOP, VO, Rare: at least 4 years in a cask

Réserve: at least 5 years in a cask

Napoléon, XO, Vieille Réserve: at least 6 years in a cask.

If we follow the BNIC's comments:

"Cognacs reaching 5, 10 or even more years of age are also used in various proportions" ( this is talking about VS)

"in fact, these qualities sometimes hold very high percentage of Cognac that matured 10, 15, 20 years or more in Limousin oak casks" (talking about VSOP)

"this applies to even more mature Cognacs enjoying a consequently exceptional quality" (talking about XO, Napoléon).

This is mere literature and can only puzzle the consumer.

When shall we see a simple label showing efficient information to purchaser with a guarantee concerning the quality and the actual age of the product?

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Products

Everybody knows the reputation of the Maison Hine's vintages. The fabulous 1914 that showed up on the market a few years ago is still in our memories. Today, this merchant from Jarnac puts 1953, 1957, 1960, 1961, 1965, 1972 and 1976 on the market, maintaining his image as a vintage specialist. Hennessy, who has always been praising blending, created a pleasant surprise when they allowed their subsidiary company to demolish their solid policy. We have always claimed that vintage was a factor of quality so we will not complain! And, one day, this will be the occasion to give you a tasting session report on these products...

Coup de Coeur - Dégustation

Cognac Navarre Grande Champagne

We have promised you the tasting session of a 1925 vintage Navarre Grande Champagne. First, the nose comes through sharply, almost vividly, covering up a good quality eau-de-vie. It is old and has difficulty to assert its rancio. The latter is a subtle blend of bee wax and dry vine shoot. Time will not help; this eau-de-vie is linear, and, even when it rises, it will not be able to get rid of its missed alteration. It is a shame, because, as far as the mouth is concerned, it lets a certain fineness appear, and it brings the elegance one can expect from a Grande Champagne when it comes from good lineage. Actually, Monsieur Navarre, the vinegrower, confirmed it was old as it dates back to 1925. The rancio blooms mixing the flavors of ripe fruit with light cocoa and bee wax. It still fills the mouth but unfortunately it is a bit short in length. This lack of balance between the nose and the mouth brings frustration, especially when a cognac of good lineage seems to have been spoilt through useless manipulations.

1925 Navarre Grande Champagne

20 years old?... what a beautiful age!

The rancio rises carefully, in a fine and light way, blending dry vine shoot with flowery bee wax. The reduction and the assimilated wood have ensured a well handled aging. it maintains itself in time, a bit austere, almost dry but with no fault. Would these be the characteristics for Fins Bois that aged properly? The mouth is in perfect harmony with the nose; it is pleasant, fills the palate well and holds on sufficiently. I like these frank Cognacs, they keep respect for the vineyard the originate from, they are sincere in their aging, without ostentation; this guarantees a sound pleasure. everything is natural, no make-up is spread on, just the truth.

20 years Cognac Prunier

Hennessy XO

Heavy cocoa has difficulty to get rid of the strong presence of alcohol. The blending is technically well handled but it is monotonous. The range of scents is close to the "terroir" (soil) and far from the fluttery lightness of Champagnes. The mouth must allow the alcoholic strength to pass by; then the flavors already felt by the nose can finally appear. All this lacks genius; incidentally can genius actually exist in XO? One would like to feel more fineness, a more noble extraction. In fact, one would like to see higher quality demanded by the legal denomination for such a high range product coming from a company enjoying a prestigious renown. Must improve.

R. & J. Navarre Le Bourg, 16200 Gondeville

Phone: (+33) 05 45 81 19 74

Cognac Prunier 7 avenue General Leclerc, 16102 Cognac

Phone: (+33) 05 45 35 00 14 Fax: (+33) 05 45 35 39 41

Hennessy rue de la Richonne, 16100 Cognac

Phone: (+33) 05 45 35 72 68 Fax: (+33) 05 45 82 49 01